playing tourist in Hà Nội

It has been five years since the last time I went back to Hanoi for a visit. Though I was born and raised there till I was 18, the past five years are long enough to make me feel like a tourist in my own hometown. I actually loved it, as I took in everything both the old and the new with a pair of curious eyes. I took George to places that bear a lot of memories to me, and together we checked out some tourist sites I never cared to visit before. It makes me fall in love with Hanoi even more, something I didn’t think was possible since I already loved it so much.

Hoàng Thành Thăng Long - Imperial Citadel of Thang Long

The Imperial Citadel of Thăng Long is constructed in 1001 under the Ly dynasty. This thousand-year-old citadel has not only withstood the test of time but also many major wars and colonisations. To me there’s no other place symbolises the resilience of Vietnamese people like the citadel. The buildings were painted in this signature yellow shade you would find in most old architecture of Vietnam, and it’s so beautiful when the golden light hits. I often see war museums are the top sites to visit in Hanoi, but I find them so painful and depressing to see. The citadel offers better insights of Vietnam’s history, all the way back to the thriving dynasty through to the Vietnam War, but less traumatic.

The Muse Art Space - Vietnamese art culture

The Muse Art Space is a boutique art gallery that aims to showcase and support young artists in Vietnam. It’s located right at the heart of Hanoi, with a deep blue store front that instantly catches my eyes. Most exhibitions here offer free entry which is such an added bonus. I felt so lucky for stumbling across this place when the exhibition “Inside the Garden” was on — a painting series using the special Vietnamese lacquer techniques. Despite being a relatively new art technique for having only gone through less than 100 years of development, Vietnamese lacquer painting has become a strong element in Vietnamese art culture. Lacquer painting has proven difficult to work with compared to many other mediums. Not only does it have various grinding and tempering stages, other factors such as humidity can also impact the outcome. Materials utilised in lacquer paintings are natural ingredients — lacquer, Son pigment, gold, silver, nacre, eggshell, mussel shell, etc. 

Artisan complex at 21 Hàng Bún

Tucked away in one of the busy Old Quarter streets, this old French villa is a true hidden gem of Hanoi. I originally wanted to check out the plant shop and was pleasantly surprised to find out that there were also a silk clothing shop, an art studio and a florist in the same complex. There’s soon to be a tea shop on the ground floor too. It really is a one stop shop for everything I love.

L’inverse Bar - a hidden slice of Paris in Hanoi

The bar is located in one of the best nightlight streets in Hanoi, but is completely hidden inside a small dark alleyway that I almost walked past because there was no sign. It may sound a bit intimidating walking into a random alleyway to find a bar in a new city, but trust me, this place is worth the thrills. We walked up the creaky stairs to the door, and when we opened it, it felt like we were teleported to a whole new world that couldn’t be more opposite to the outside entrance. Most of their cocktails are French-themed, and I later found out that the owner spent many years living in Paris before he went back to Vietnam. Their rooftop space is a cherry on top, making this place my most favourite bar in Hanoi.

Maison Marou Hanoi - Vietnamese artisan chocolates

When we packed for Vietnam, half of our luggage was filled with Whittakers’ chocolates. When we left to go back to New Zealand, our luggage was again filled with chocolates - this time by Maison Marou, the first Vietnamese place that offers bean-to-bar chocolate experience. All of their chocolates use 100% local ingredients and are crafted in their factory in Saigon. Our favourites are the single-origin bars made from the beans grown locally in different regions of Vietnam and candied chilli. Dayum!

Bonus some of my favourite nostalgic moments

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slow travel in Đà Lạt