best “coffee & chill” spots in Hanoi

Most people know about the coffee culture in Vietnam, right? We’re one of the top exporters of Robusta coffee beans in the world. But I actually got into coffee when I was at uni in New Zealand. Late nights trying to finish assignments called for lots of caffeine. Then George introduced me to this whole new world of single-origin coffee beans and pour over. For a while, we were all about Chemex and taking the time to make a cup of coffee. It became a ritual to help us slow down. All of this rambling is to say that I love coffee now. So I was really excited about enjoying a lot of Vietnamese coffee again.

Forget about Netflix & chill. Do coffee & chill instead. It’s one of George and I’s favourite rituals in Hanoi. During the three weeks, we checked out so many different cafes in Hanoi. It feels like there are more cafes than scooters in Hanoi so it’s easy to choose a new place every time. But below are the places that have captured my heart and made me go back. For my future self-reference, and for anyone who lives in Hanoi or wishes to travel there one day.

Types of Vietnamese coffee

If in New Zealand, we have - flat white, latte, cappuccino, long black, etc. as our coffee options. Then in Vietnam, we have our own takes on coffee — đen (black), nâu (brown), cà phê trứng (egg coffee), bạc sỉu, etc. It’s true that the French first brought coffee to Vietnam during their colonisation back in the early 1900s. But out of scarcity, we created new ways of enjoying these dark bitter beans. Fresh cow milk was non-existent in Southeast Asia back in those days. So condensed milk was the genius substitute!

Nâu is robusta coffee mixed with condensed milk - the classic Vietnamese milk coffee. The right ratio would give you a simple cup of Joe that is so well-balanced in flavours - the rich sweetness from the condensed milk counterbalance the bitterness from Robusta coffee beans like they are made for each other. Though, too much condensed milk then it’s too sweet. And vice versa. It’s my go-to coffee drink in Hanoi. It’s really fun to see different cafes in Hanoi now come up with their own takes on the traditional nâu. So much creativity.

Egg coffee originated in Hanoi back in the 1940s. Under the new French sanction, even condensed milk was hard to come by. We once again had to be creative and grabbed the next staple in the pantry - eggs. cụ Giảng - a young barista at the time, whisked fresh, raw egg yolk until it became smooth and creamy and added it to coffee as a substitute for condensed milk. His new invention took off (no surprise here because it’s truly genius!) He opened his own cafe and just sold egg coffee. And it’s still being run by his family in Hanoi now using the same OG recipe. Egg coffee is more common in other cafes now too, but it’s still rare to come across a really good egg coffee aside from the OG place. Rare but not nonexistent, thankfully.

List of my favourite café

1. Chàm Cafe

Location: 28 Ngõ Thái Hà, Hanoi, Vietnam

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/cham_cafe/

This place is nested in a residential alleyway and only a 5-minute walk from my parent’s place, so it’s a true local gem that George and I spent a lot of time at. The first time we got here, climbing up the rustic staircase, I gasped when I saw the roof deck surrounded by so much greenery and drenched in natural light. There was a big star fruit tree that grew through the second floor and was heavy with so many star fruits. Their nâu is well-balanced, not too sweet, and gives me the perfect caffeine hit in the morning. I also had a lot of egg coffee here and loved it too. It happened to be autumn when we were in Hanoi, so we got to eat cốm (young rice) with our coffee. And I couldn’t think of a better combo. It was such a lovely experience here every single time.

2. Café Đinh

Location: 12 Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Hanoi, Vietnam

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/dinhcafe/

Café Đinh was opened by cụ Giảng’s daughter many years ago. It is still run by her family now and offers another place to go enjoy the OG take on egg coffee. Their egg coffee is truly on another level. Imagine Crème Brûlée but in a custard form blended in with a hot shot of full-bodied Robusta coffee beans. It’s so creamy and thick. The shop we went to is their original place, situated right at the heart of Hanoi, with a balcony overlooking Hoàn Kiếm lake. It’s a small place with very minimal decor, just three rows of tiny wooden stools and tables, and seasonal flowers. It’s a place I feel gives me the most Hanoian vibes — unassuming, chill, and traditional.

3. Yên Cafe

Location - 21 Ngõ 42 Giang Văn Minh

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/thaiyencafe/

Yên in Vietnamese means “peace”. And it was exactly how I felt when I was at Yên. They have a few locations around Hanoi but my personal favourite is their shop in Giang Văn Minh. The owners renovated a residential villa that is tucked away in an alley into a cafe. It’s away from all the street noises and is frequent by regular guests only. Stepping into Yên here feels like going through a secret garden with lush greenery acting as the gatekeeper. You are then awarded a true tropical jungle oasis. I loved sitting on the second floor’s balcony and staring out at the greenery while sipping on “Sa Pa” - their signature milk coffee. I couldn’t help but felt like time paused for as long as I sat here.

4. Toka Coffee

Location - 36 Thi Sách, Hanoi, Vietnam

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/toka.coffee/

I have to give credit to George for finding out about this cafe. It’s truly heaven on earth for any plant lover like me. The alleyway leading to the back garden is lined with the most gorgeous plants. And the back garden is honestly my favourite place to catch up with friends. It is simply a beautifully curated garden with some of the most highly desirable species. I especially loved it when the light hit the different shades of green against the yellow wall paint of an old Vietnamese villa. If I have to describe what my dream garden cafe looks like, this is it. And if coffee is not your go-to drink, their matcha latte and fruit drinks are good too.

5. Stay Coffee

Location: 17 Ngõ 198 Thái Thịnh, Hanoi, Vietnam

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/staycoffee.vn/

George and I stumbled across this cafe during our final days in Hanoi. It’s another place that is hidden away in a residential alley (see my common theme here). It’s in within walking distance of my parent's place so we came here a couple of times before we left Vietnam. I wish I had known about this place earlier in our trip. I love their tagline — “coffee for your soul” and I feel like this place does give you a cosy, soulful vibe. It’s a nice surprise and bonus that they have six feline residents there. Bear in mind that some of them are friendly and cuddly while others definitely look down on you. They offer Vietnamese coffee and hand-brewed single-origin beans.